Likely it's obvious by now that I get a lot out of time spent in the sea. Runners' high, yogic prana, whatever you want to call that headspace, the ocean is where I find it most often. Saltiness and happiness share a direct correlation that I am all too happy to indulge.
I've realised that a lot of the lessons I've learnt from surfing are metaphors I can apply to life back on terra firma. Be it in the wake of a beating or the best session of my life, my outlook is always more lateral, flexible and peaceful after being in the sea with nothing to distract my thoughts.
Ergo, the following begins an indefinite series I have entitled The Philosurfer's Tone. Te guste!
THE PHILOSURFER'S TONE: Missing Out
"When you feel like you've missed an opportunity - a wave, for example - you're actually probably better off for not getting it."
Imagine someone saying this in a nice deep, smooth, commanding voice (so probably not me). In fact pretend it's Sir Ian Mckellan. Gandalf's voice resonates authority like no other, right?
Anyway. I've learnt this out in the surf, this principle of dealing with failure. The recently awakened Philosurfer in me has realised it's another prime metaphor from the ocean for being more rational in my everyday response to challenge.
I really wanted that wave.
But Rolls you were too wide.
You would have had to really scratch to get into it.
Late takeoffs like that are tricky as it is, no sense in kooking it out of greed.
Less fun too if you fall off, definitely less fun than a deliberate, controlled entry.
Come to think of it, big waves are only really dangerous when you force yourself to launch from an uncomfortable position. Under the lip or just scared shitless sitting out to sea. Either way.
Probably better off to have missed it.
The teach: rushing or forcing important decisions is a really easy way to set yourself up for failure!